January 1st, 2008

2008 Wine Tour   Carol and Joe Barsin 

  AUSTRIA On an October wine trip through eastern Europe my wife and I left  “Bohemia”, the southwestern corner of the Czech Republic, formerly a province of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and we crossed the border at Halamky, an alpine mountain hamlet, passing into Austria.  It was a warm Sunday morning in mid October, the fields are still green, but the leaves on the grapevines at this higher elevation have turned yellow.  Several of the towns along our route were celebrating the Lords Day with an open air fair.  Our objective was to visit Austria’s Wienland zone (which surrounds Vienna) and specifically the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal appellations.  I was excited, as it is my first visit to this UN designated “world heritage cultural landscape” in the Wachau (Danube) on one of the most beautiful stretches of river valley in Europe.

Wine has been made here since 700 BC as the CELTS used it for rituals and daily consumption.  These foothills along the Danube, about 40 miles west of Vienna rise swiftly in some areas and gently in others to an altitude of 1600 ft above sea level with a climate similar to that of Burgundy in France.  The Romans followed the Celts and continued to cultivate grapes but viniculture fell apart under Charlemagne. The cultivation of grapes and the making of fine wines was restarted by Cistercian monks from Burgundy who traveled to Austria with their grapes and knowledge in the late Middle ages. 

Austria is best known for producing white wines but dry whites not as in Germany because the    Austrian vineyards are located closer to the equator than any German vineyard with hotter summers, natural alcohol is higher but the yield is lower naturally and also by regulation. 

The most popular varietal is Gruner Veltliner and it can range from marvelously fresh and lively to concentrated and monumental always with a crisp acidity. This refreshing white typically shows nuances of grapefruit and other citrus aromas and tastes.  The red varietal, Blauer Zweigelt, is velvety and nicely bodied with characteristics of cherry tones and soft tannins, similar to the Beaujolais of France.        

On this warm sunny day we visited Ludwig Holtzer and his assistant, Barbara, of Winzer Krems (WK). WK, is a wine cooperative, owned by more than 1300 local grape growers, that got its start as a wine making guild established in 1447.  The house is steeped in tradition and the output was once reserved for the imperial Hapsburg banquet tables.  I have long admired their Gruner Veltliner Kremser Wachberg (peach and mineral with excellent crispness), have known Ludwig for several years and always wanted to view his vineyards and taste some of their other wines. I decided this October to take him up on his longstanding invitation to visit.  Krems is atypical of the lovely small villages perched along the Danube squeezed between the river and the mountains.  Its historic center is closed to vehicles but provides easy access for shopping, restaurants and pubs. It marks the eastern end of the Wachau region and start of the Kremstal.  Wachau grows most of the Gruner Veltliner along the banks at lower elevations in “loss” (prehistoric rock) and sand. The highest elevations and steepest slopes, with granite and gneiss are reserved for Riesling.  These Rieslings have the steely cut of the German Saar in a full mouth filling structure similar to the Rieslings from Alsace.  

We were graciously welcomed and started our tour in the vineyards.  Due to the Danube and its opening to the southeast the weather remains mild until the end of October and the harvest was still in progress.  However, in Austria, no grapes are picked on Sundays unless it is an emergency.  Our first glass of a Gruner Veltliner 2005 (Wachau) was tasted in the vineyard at the “Hiata Hutta”.  The “Hutta” provided shelter to guards, who in days of yore assisted in minimizing grape poaching. Winzer grows many whites including Chardonnay’s, Muscat’s, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Traminer and Sauvignon Blanc, in many styles including ice wines and sparkling.   Reds are confined to the Blauer Zwight (BZ), St Laurant and Pinot Noirs.  But 55% of their total production is the Gruner Veltliner.  The winery was rebuilt in 2005 and the latest technology such as low temperature stainless fermentation is now applied. The tasting cellar, barrel room and film studio are state of the art.  The cellar contains wines from the 1948 vintage and every vintage since. 

We tasted many wines including the 2005 version of my favorite, Kremser Wachberg GV 2005 which was delightful (lime, spicy pear, grapefruit and slate) rated 90 by WineSpec (Available from Total Wine for $15.99).  The Kremer Goldberg GV 2005 had even more mineral and was delicious (TW 12.99).  The Riesling Pfaffenberg (16.99) is outstanding and mimics the Saar/Alsace ideal combination.  Our tasting included Sparkling, the Rose from the BZ was elegant, light and spicy (not available) and Trockenberrenauslese ($22.99 TBA) delicious for after dinner.  If you have developed a taste for the crispness associated with a  New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc you will really appreciate the GV and Rieslings from Austria. 

The Hotel Unter den Linden (www.udl.at), one block from the old town center and two blocks from the Danube, was a great spot to stay.  Breakfast included an expresso machine that you can run your self. There are many fine guest houses that have rooms for as low as $40. The “Alte Post” in the historic district was the place to eat a Sunday evening dinner and I enjoyed most their Zwiebelrost.  The next morning we drove up the Danube with a stop in Grein for strudel and coffee and then on to Salzburg and Mozart Concerts.  More in two months on Salzburg and northeastern Italy.

The Danube-Baumgarten Schloss background top of a hill

                                    

Barsin’s Bodega    

If you missed Joe's December Wine Article, please click here.

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What is Barsin's Bodega?  A bodega is a wine cellar where wine makers traditionally host tastings to introduce clients to their wines and to instruct them on the nuances of each blend.  This practice assists in the selection of the perfect wine to give or to compliment food. 

Joe Barsin, an international connoisseur, certified by ISG and a Certified Wine Specialist (SWE), can provide this service to you and your friends at your residence or club, just as he does bi-weekly when conducting tasting for the largest wine retailer in the USA. 

This "bodega experience" is enlivened by Barsin, who draws on the knowledge he gained from years of living in Spain and Italy.  He offers inside stories on winemaking techniques along with humorous anecdotes to enrich your appreciation of each wine and the people who make it so special.  Formerly associated with the Westin Hotel of Charlotte, Barsin's Bodega has provided private tastings for individuals, clubs and on behalf of organizations such as Opera Carolina, The American Heart Association, and Matthews Players Guild.

Barsin's Bodega provides:

Wine tastings in your private home or club.

Consultation about cellar stocking and purchasing.

Planning for wine tours worldwide.

Joe Barsin can be contacted at (704) 236-8284

or email at BarsinsBodega@aol.com

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