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2008 Wine Tour Carol and Joe Barsin AUSTRIA On an October wine trip through eastern Europe my wife and I left “Bohemia”, the southwestern corner of the Czech Republic, formerly a province of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and we crossed the border at Halamky, an alpine mountain hamlet, passing into Austria. It was a warm Sunday morning in mid October, the fields are still green, but the leaves on the grapevines at this higher elevation have turned yellow. Several of the towns along our route were celebrating the Lords Day with an open air fair. Our objective was to visit Austria’s Wienland zone (which surrounds Vienna) and specifically the Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal appellations. I was excited, as it is my first visit to this UN designated “world heritage cultural landscape” in the Wachau (Danube) on one of the most beautiful stretches of river valley in Europe. Wine has been made here since 700 BC as the CELTS used it for rituals and daily consumption. These foothills along the Danube, about 40 miles west of Vienna rise swiftly in some areas and gently in others to an altitude of 1600 ft above sea level with a climate similar to that of Burgundy in France. The Romans followed the Celts and continued to cultivate grapes but viniculture fell apart under Charlemagne. The cultivation of grapes and the making of fine wines was restarted by Cistercian monks from Burgundy who traveled to Austria with their grapes and knowledge in the late Middle ages. Austria is best known for producing white wines but dry whites not as in Germany because the Austrian vineyards are located closer to the equator than any German vineyard with hotter summers, natural alcohol is higher but the yield is lower naturally and also by regulation. The most popular varietal is Gruner Veltliner and it can range from marvelously fresh and lively to concentrated and monumental always with a crisp acidity. This refreshing white typically shows nuances of grapefruit and other citrus aromas and tastes. The red varietal, Blauer Zweigelt, is velvety and nicely bodied with characteristics of cherry tones and soft tannins, similar to the Beaujolais of France. On this warm sunny day we visited Ludwig Holtzer and his assistant, Barbara, of Winzer Krems (WK). WK, is a wine cooperative, owned by more than 1300 local grape growers, that got its start as a wine making guild established in 1447. The house is steeped in tradition and the output was once reserved for the imperial Hapsburg banquet tables. I have long admired their Gruner Veltliner Kremser Wachberg (peach and mineral with excellent crispness), have known Ludwig for several years and always wanted to view his vineyards and taste some of their other wines. I decided this October to take him up on his longstanding invitation to visit. Krems is atypical of the lovely small villages perched along the Danube squeezed between the river and the mountains. Its historic center is closed to vehicles but provides easy access for shopping, restaurants and pubs. It marks the eastern end of the Wachau region and start of the Kremstal. Wachau grows most of the Gruner Veltliner along the banks at lower elevations in “loss” (prehistoric rock) and sand. The highest elevations and steepest slopes, with granite and gneiss are reserved for Riesling. These Rieslings have the steely cut of the German Saar in a full mouth filling structure similar to the Rieslings from Alsace.
Barsin’s Bodega If you missed Joe's December Wine Article, please click here.
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What is Barsin's Bodega? A bodega is a wine cellar where wine
makers traditionally host tastings to introduce clients to their wines
and to instruct them on the nuances of each blend. This practice
assists in the selection of the perfect wine to give or to compliment
food.
This "bodega experience" is enlivened by Barsin, who Barsin's Bodega provides: Wine tastings in your private home or club. Consultation about cellar stocking and purchasing. Planning for wine tours worldwide. Joe Barsin can be contacted at (704) 236-8284 or email at BarsinsBodega@aol.com Barsin's Bodega Wine Story Index
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