December 1st, 2007

Alsace, that narrow strip of land running north to south for 90 miles, nestled between the Vosges Mountains to the east and the Rhine to the west, has changed ownership between France and Germany several times over the past two hundred years.  At this moment (2007) it is under French control. It was given to France by the treaty of Westphalia (1648) and opened to free settlement by royal edicts from Louis XIV in 1662, which attracted Swiss, Germans, Troleans and Lorrainer settlers. Wars have changed ownership several times since then with Germany and France alternating the power.

Alsace is a story book land comprised of small walled villages in the foothills of the Vosges and connected by a “Rue Du Vine” (Road of Wine), all arranged like gems on a necklace. The buildings are constructed in the Timber/Stone style with every balcony adorned with hanging flowers; chimneys supporting stork nests; wandering cobblestone streets reserved for walking, and all surrounded by vineyards coming right up to the village walls. 

The winemakers take the best of both cultures-cultivating the typical German varietals such as Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris, but in the vinification of these wines the Germans tend to value residual sugar in their wines while the Alsacians value strength.    

Carol and I visited the Alsace region in late October and headquartered ourselves in the village of Riquwhr located in the middle of the north-south Rue de Vin.  We stayed at the Hotel L’Oriel (info@hotel-oriel.com) a 16th  century house with 19 rooms all decorated in the quaint Alsatian style..  

The recent very hot summer had picking completed in mid September for the standard wines but was still in progress for the late harvest Vendange Tardive (VD). The VD wines are powerful, rich, which range in alcohol content from 14.3-16 percent with levels of fruit concentration and extract that are awesome.  The grapes are fully ripened with some amount of noble rot (pourriture noble) which serves to dry out the grapes (increasing the concentration of sugar and flavor).   The cold climate coupled with the late harvest aids in acid production and thus the balance of fruit/acid/sweetness is amazing and provides a delightfully long finish.  A perfect after dinner wine.   My favorite “SPARR GEWURZTRAMINER VENDANGE TARDIVE” is available at Total Wine & More in Matthews for $29.99 5000ml. 

While in Alsace one winemaker I had to visit was Lucien Albrecht located in the southern end of the Rue de Vin in the small village of Orschwihr.  The Albrecht’s own a grand cru vineyard (Phingstberg) and Jean has taken over from his father. I have enjoyed their Reserve Riesling for many years, which I have  treasured for its bone dryness, aroma of spring flowers, having some spice and mineral notes and an elegant finish. Nothing beats it as a stand alone aperitif (typically we keep a case of it on the deck for a week of après-ski) or with seafood or poultry.  Available at Total Wine for $13.99.   

However during this visit we sampled Jean’s Pinot Blanc Reserva, a perfect Chardonnay alternative.  100% Pinot Blanc, unoaked, fresh and dry with crisp melon, citrus and a touch of mineral on the long finish.  Carol loved it so much that upon our return I featured it at the Total Wine pre Thanksgiving Tasting as a “potential turkey wine” and we sold out. I also used it for our Thanksgiving Turkey feast this year and received raves from a most critical audience…my family.   Available for $10.99 at Total Wine       

In Alsace, there are hundreds of small intimate restaurants specializing in local dishes that are German in nature but French in flair. Pork both boiled and smoked (Choucroute-served with a bottle of Crement-a sparkling Riesling made in the Method Champagne) and roasted, Backeofe (Beef, Lamb, Pork stew marinated in Riesling), La Tarte a l’Oignon “Ziwelkueche” (onion pie) and Duck represent some of the dishes I tried and really liked. Desserts are definitely French with Crepes leading the parade followed by the Le Kugelhopf (Cake of currents and almonds).  I suggest the following three restaurants as tried, true and outstanding in food, presentation and service. In Riquewihr “Au Cep De Vigne”, in St Hippolyte “A La Vignette” and in Obernai “Restaurant La Cloche”.   

English is spoken everywhere, Americans are liked, and in fact during our visit in Riquewihr the major exhibit in the museum was the liberation of Alsace by American troops. We can’t think of a more delightful place to visit, especially if you are a lover of good food, wine, and charming towns. 

Joe Barsin 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What is Barsin's Bodega?  A bodega is a wine cellar where wine makers traditionally host tastings to introduce clients to their wines and to instruct them on the nuances of each blend.  This practice assists in the selection of the perfect wine to give or to compliment food. 

Joe Barsin, an international connoisseur, certified by ISG and a Certified Wine Specialist (SWE), can provide this service to you and your friends at your residence or club, just as he does bi-weekly when conducting tasting for the largest wine retailer in the USA. 

This "bodega experience" is enlivened by Barsin, who draws on the knowledge he gained from years of living in Spain and Italy.  He offers inside stories on winemaking techniques along with humorous anecdotes to enrich your appreciation of each wine and the people who make it so special.  Formerly associated with the Westin Hotel of Charlotte, Barsin's Bodega has provided private tastings for individuals, clubs and on behalf of organizations such as Opera Carolina, The American Heart Association, and Matthews Players Guild.

Barsin's Bodega provides:

Wine tastings in your private home or club.

Consultation about cellar stocking and purchasing.

Planning for wine tours worldwide.

Joe Barsin can be contacted at (704) 236-8284

or email at BarsinsBodega@aol.com

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