May 20th, 2009

Piedmont Part two

 This story continues our revisit to the Piedmont of Italy 30 years after living in Italy. (Part 1 covers out visit to Alessandro Vico in the village of Canale near Asti in the Piedmont)

Following our visit to Alessandro in Canale, I wanted to squeeze in a visit to Luigi Scavino and his wife Lorella in the village of Castiglone Falleto, close by the vineyards of Barolo and La Mura.  His family specializes in the “Great Grape” of the Piedmont, the Nebbiolo from which they create Barolo, often referred to as: “the wine of kings, the king of wines”. Heading south out of Canale crossing the Tanaro at Alba, and about 40 minutes later, we arrived in the town of La Mura close to the “Azelia” Estate winery. The total production in the entire Barolo DOCG is half a million cases as the area is only seven miles long by five at its widest.  It is typical for winemakers to produce wines from specific vineyards, which have demonstrated particular merit.  Long term tradition has families growing and vinfying their own grapes. These wines, even with the best corks, do oxidize but very slowly and are expected to do so in the bottle. When you pour a five year old Barolo you will notice a characteristic orange tint around the rim of the glass and in pouring a 20 year old Barolo, you will notice it is brown. Barolo, per the DOCG, must be aged for a minimum of three years prior to release with one of those years in chestnut or oak barrels (that smoky wooden flavor) and have a minimum alcohol of 12.5%. If it is aged for five years it may be called “Riserva”.  These are the full flavored, highly tannic wines that benefit from aging and at their best are majestic. 

Luigi has taken the classical route with the making of his wines as his grapes are from the eastern valley (Serralunga-soil is Helvetian with more sandstone much less fertile) and they are more austere, powerful, full bodied. The harsher tannins require extended aging to develop and mature-(typically peaking at 20 or more years). Tradition requires long maceration (leaving skins in contact with the pressed juice) for up to 40 days creating a more robust wine and extended aging in large old barrels.

Luigi and his family live above their Cantina: production is limited and his commitment to making fine fruit in the vineyard is complete and follows the family tradition.  Luigi’s “Azelia” is dedicated to making a classical Barolo. His vineyards are Serralunga and San Rocco but he shares the Fiasco Hill with his brother. All are eastern situated. Luigi’s 99 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco was rated 90 pts, his 2001 93 pts and his San Rocco 95 pts all by Wine Spectator.   We tasted his 2002, 2003 and 2004 Bricco Fiasco while examining a grandfathers clock built and constructed piece by piece from hand carved wood pieces, wood gears etc by Luigi’s grandfather during the Piedmont winters and was completed in 1910.  It was not from a kit and it still works almost 100 years after completion!  The wines, handcrafted, are not from a kit either -and they were just fantastic. Fine fruity and spicy notes; tobacco and licorice with warm rich soft tannins well balanced and quite fresh. 

His cousin, Enrico, who vinifies and markets separately under the “Scavino” label pioneered (deviated from historic Barolo traditional wine making in the 80”s) in creating the easy drinking soft and lush modern Barolos that Robert Parker likes because they are ready to drink sooner, within eight to ten years of the vintage date. Harvest is set for the achieving max pheonolic ripeness; marceration period could be as short as 10 days to maintain the fresh fruit style and fermentation in stainless temperature control vessels following which the wine is aged in small NEW oak barrels. Enrico’s vineyards are in the Western Valley where Tortornian soil is more fertile, rich in magnesium, with manganese and compact calcerous marl mixed with sand  (La Mura and Barolo village).  The grapes here often have more perfumed aromas such as white truffles, are typically more elegant with a velvety texture and are less full bodied.  This soil is similar to Barbarsco’s calcareous clay marls but very different from Barolo’s eastern valley.

Scanvino’s 2001 Barolo rated at 93 pts (WS) and 2001 Barolo Annunizatia rated an amazing 96 points (WA) and the 2003’s maintain the quality with the Cannubi rated 91 pts (WA) and the Bric del Fiasc rated at 93 Pts (WA).  We did not visit Enrico this time but have tasted his Annunziatia 01 that presented aromas and flavors of delight including roses, minerals, smoke, sweet red fruit and tar.

Finding a room in La Mura was not difficult.  A small inn (Locanda) had a note on the door-if you wish a room please call this number.  I had no phone so just rang the bell and the patron, fresh out of the shower came out on the balcony overhead dripping water on my head as he adjusted his robe and indicated he had a room.  The room was lovely and the  patron offered to call the local Agri tourismo (system of farms in Italy that take in guests and offer delicious meals at very reasonable prices) and assured they had room for us for dinner.  I got lost trying to find the farm and a local farmer invited me to follow him and he would take us there.  We accepted and upon arrival at the correct farm he invited us to return to his home after our dinner and enjoy a drink together.  You cannot beat the Italians at hospitality!  As a close to another great day in Italy we experienced a delightful Piedmonte dinner with fresh Barbarsco to wash it down.   La dolce vita! 

 AUTHORS NOTE

Because knowledge in the USA concerning these excellent Italian Piedmont wines made from the Nebbiolo grape is not well spread an authors note has been created to help demystify these bargains.

 1- Barbaresco (same grape) but grown in town/area of Barbaresco-Langhe Hills soil of calcareous clay marl and with half the vineyard acerage of Barolo, slightly lower elevation (peak 165 feet lower) and located about 25 miles to the north east along the Tanaro just north of Alba.  Maceration and aging requirements are less than that required for Barolo creating a lighter style of wine.  Required are two years aging with one of those in oak or chestnut and the same 12.5% Alcohol.

2-Gattinara, a DOC northeast of Turin, also must use at least 90% of the Nebbiolo grape and the balance can be blended from the Bonarda grape and must be aged for four years prior to release and at least two must be in wood barrels.

These three crus, along with the Brunello’s of Tuscany, are the finest red wines of Italy and for my taste put most average Bordeaux vintages to shame.

 3-All should note that Nebbiolo does not have to meet DOCG specifications to make a serious, mellow, fragrant wine and can be identified as Nebbiolo d’Alba, Langhe Nebbiolo on the labels-rather than Barolo or Barbaresco, for excellent quality at a bargain price.

  Joe Barsin   Certified Sommelier, CSW, Society of Wine Educators

End part 2 of the Revisit to Piedmont  

If you missed Joe's January  Wine Article, please click here.

Barsin's Bodega Wine Story Index

December 2007

January 2008

April 2008

July 2008

October 2008

January 2009

May 2009