April 15th, 2008

2008 Wine Tour   Carol and Joe Barsin 

Gorizia  Where is it?  Eastern-most part of northern Italy!

That sense of adventure (stomach crunch) that comes when I set off for a new place hit me as we left Salzburg heading south over the Alps to northeastern Italy, to visit with Silvestro Primosic and his son Marko at their vineyards.  Primosic Vineyards is located outside the regional capital, Gorizia, located north of Trieste about 70 miles and straddles the Italian/Slovenian border with Nova Gorica on the Slovenian side.  The area was split between Yugoslavia and Italy after WW1 (containing both Gorzia and Trieste) and became a border compromise gift to Italy from the Allies and the UN after WW2 (1963) in part for assistance provided near the end of the war.   

The drive south from Salzburg to Villach passes through some of Austria’s most beautiful alpine regions and crosses the border into Italy at Arnoldstein.  A long gradual descent follows from the Alp Friuli, Venezia Guilia region offers magnificent vistas above pristine valleys all the way to the Collio (“Hill”) appellation, a DOC, and our destination for the day. 

These are the foothills between the Adriatic and the Jura Alps and on the Slovenian side, a zone is “Brda”.  The Soca river forms the border for a short distance and changes its name to the Isonzo as it flows into Italy at Gorizia. It is known that grape cultivation existed here in pre-Roman times. Records indicate that in 300 AD the Emperor Massimino confiscated all oak barrels and casks from the local vintners to build a bridge over the Isonzo for improved access to Aquileia, a Roman port, from the Alps. Elevations range from 600 to 1800 feet above sea level.  The area enjoys a mellow climate modified by the Adriatic, with clay and limestone soils. The nights are cool and help the grapes to produce the acidity that permits the delightful balance we find in these wines.   

Together with the Alto Adige, this is probably Italy’s best white wine region. The purity of flavor, rich mouth filling style and minerality of the Pinot Grigio’s (PGs) from Collio versus the crisp, greater fruit depth levels found in the PGs of the Alto Adige have been vying for my “favorite” PG recommendation for years now and can only be decided by the vintage. Both are really good, excellent, even when compared to those produced at the lower elevations in the Venato appellation.  I felt I had to visit both regions and my favorite wine-makers on this trip to help me sort out this dual love affair with the two contrasting but delightful styles. (Next letter will highlight our visit to the Alto Adige.)   

The winemakers of Collio are all bi-lingual using Italian or Slovenian as required to get the best wine made. Their superior product is a PG that I describe as “Nectar of the Gods”.  It is that good!   The DOC produces both reds and whites with more than 15 varietals.  The reds are cultivated in the lower elevations and along the coast and include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Pinot Nero, but the most famous red from this DOC in Italy is the Refosco.  The upper elevations are dedicated to Riesling, Italco, Sauvignon, Pinot Blanco, Ribolla Giallo and Pinot Grigio among many others.   

The Primosic family has been growing grapes in this zone since the 19^th century and has supplied the royal family of Austria as well as the princes of Venice with the white Ribolla Gialla. Silvestro retains the family passion for the land, the tradition and the value of local indigenous grape varieties. They hand pick their grapes, limiting grape production with green harvests (removing grape clusters so as to reduce yield and concentrate more minerality in those grapes that will be used to make the wine). For the Pinot Grigio (Collio DOC) their process includes a brief contact of the “must” with the dregs (about 4 hours at 6C), a gentle pneumatic press, and a cold wash of the “must”.  Fermentation is controlled at 18C (63F) in stainless steel.  This produces a straw yellow with coppery shades, high alcoholic content (13.5%), elegant body, medium acidity. Flavors of pear, lemon and touches of mineral are found in this racy wine. As it ages it gains a gentle predominance of almond. I tasted the 2005 harvest during my 2007 visit and it was delicious. 

While at Primosic we were invited to taste the Pinot Blanco and the Ribolla Gialla. I had never tried either before and the Ribolla Gialla (Gailla is yellow) is a varietal not well known in the USA.  Marketwise in USA it is about where Pinot Grigio was 25 years ago but is available at Total Wine here in Charlotte.  The hand picking, pressing and fermentation duplicate that of the Pinot Grigio described above.  We tasted the 2006 (one year old) and found it to be dry, refreshing with slight lemon overtones and ripe fruit. The bouquet was floral with hints of acacia; the wine supple and smooth on the palate. I recommend you try it now, before it gets famous, as it sells at $9.99.  By the way, the motor car Porsche 911 has a standard “yellow” that the Ribolla Gialla Collio Consorzio has adopted as a marketing tool to get Europe to “Think Yellow” and drink more of this Ribolla Gialla Cru.  Marko had one of about 30 existing 911s being used for this marketing campaign and it was a joy to careen in it about the country trails in Gorizia searching for our Lokanda (typically a quaint roadside inn). 

The one we stayed in, Stoletne Gostilne (www.devetak.com) located on the top of San Michelle Hill in the Karst district had a view of the Adriatic, about 15 miles to the south.  The owner, Augustin  Devetak, our host and fifth generation of the family involved is a gourmet chef and sommelier – with cellar additions chiseled out of limestone as required to add space and now totaling more than 14,000 bottles. The family barn, external historical facade maintained but interior converted to 8 guest rooms had been open only a month prior to our visit.  The restaurant and Trattoria has been open since 1870 and offer all the local specialties featuring game and pork with excellent wines…just put yourself into the hands of Augustin and Gabriella, sit back and enjoy the meal of a lifetime.   

The wines of Collio are not well known here in the USA but are available and the quality/price ratio makes them a great value now. The area is only a 2 hour drive from Venice and is special enough to rate at least an overnight visit.  You cannot find a more reasonable, quiet, special place than the Lokander Devetak and the vineyards of Collio. It is a gem yet to be discovered by tourists! 

Joe Barsin

Certified Sommelier, Certified Specialist of Wine and Wine Associate @ Total Wine and More; Matthews NC

If you missed Joe's December Wine Article, please click here.

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